If you haven’t been to Eleven Madison Park lately, it’s time. The experience is consistently sublime. As one of my favorites, I try to be a “regular” as often as I can. Last night, the biggest surprise on the menu was what wasn’t: the chef stopped serving the duck. Shocker. According to an insider, swiss executive chef Daniel Humm (pronounced "whom") was pretty fed up that people would come to his restaurant just to have the duck and said that he can do many good things besides the duck. Ja, of course he can! The duck orphans will like the chicken poularde. Underneath the crispy skin of the juicy Four Story Hill Farm chicken, a layer of bread crumbs with black truffles, lemon and rosemary made me forget the absence of the duck. As a starter I could not resist the mini “Park Dogs”, two tiny hot dogs filled with gourmet celery relish and black truffles. At $1,000 a pound, black truffle dishes are not cheap (imagine the white ones. Unspeakable but so delectable, can’t wait for the tortellini with white truffles to be back!). But if there’s anywhere to have them and splurge a little, this is the place: a very dedicated and friendly service, plus Humm’s inventive creations. A restaurant to keep coming back to.
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