Danny Meyer's The Modern, at the MoMA: as good as it gets



By Beatriz Tasso Fragoso, special contributor

I'm not a fan of staying in Midtown when I am in New York, but... I realize that's where most people like to stay. I get the question "where should I go for dinner?" all the time, and usually my answer includes The Modern, Danny Meyer's restaurant at the MoMA.

Can't go wrong! First, it faces MoMA's sculpture garden:




For those who don't know Meyer, he owns perennial successes like Eleven Madison Park and Gramercy Tavern.

The Modern is actually a two-in-one. The first half is a bar that serves food, louder and darker:




I prefer the other half, more serene, more space between tables, better view.

This is what I had at my last lunch:

a delicious salmon and dill amuse:




Then the nicely-priced prix fixe at US$ 48:



Oh-so-delicate sea bass:




Rosy and tender veal with watercress:





A pannacota-like dessert with candied bananas:





Then a baba in Grand Marnier instead of rum, and a nicely citrussy sabayon:




Stellar mignardises capped the meal:




And just as I thought lunch couldn't get any better, we got these beautiful chocolate bonbons:





The Modern: 9 West 53rd, near Fifth Ave., tel. (212) 333-1220